![]() I’m calling this step 5b because if your boards are straighter than mine, you might not need wood filler. There is some give to the board, so with a slightly loosened screw and a little nudge, you can correct anything too egregious. Try gently guiding your boards to square if they’re a little twisty like mine. Drive your screws carefully otherwise, you could crack the boards. Using 1-1/2″ pocket screws, attach the side boards to the top, then the bottom frame pieces. I just happen to have a bunch of pocket hole screws and jump on any chance to use my Kreg jig □ Brianna Thomas, Big fan of pocket holes You can easily use wood glue instead and clamp until dry. Note: You definitely don’t have to screw your frame together. ![]() Be sure to add the holes on the “bad” side of the wood that you previously marked. Next, drill two pocket holes - using a 3/4″ material depth - into each end of your vertical frame pieces. Step 4: Drill pocket holes and construct frame Make a mark with a pencil on the “bad” sides to remember which is which. Identify which side of the boards you want facing out (the good side), and which side you want facing the wall (the bad side). What’s a dry fit? It’s when you place the boards together like a puzzle to be sure your cuts are correct. Step 3: Dry fit your vent cover frameīefore fastening your frame pieces together, you’ll want to do a dry fit. Depending on what you have on hand, you might be able to use scrap like I did! Otherwise, a 1 x 2 x 8 common board will run you between $3 and $4. My decorative vent cover for a 10 x 10 air return vent required 41″ of the board. The amount of wood you’ll need will depend on your cover size. Mine wasn’t and caused some alignment issues, which I’ll talk about briefly. I used a scrap of pine common board since I had some lying around, but if you decide to buy a new board for this, make sure yours is very straight. Since we’re using 1 x 2 boards to build the frame, each side of the frame will be 1-1/2″ wide.Ĭut two pieces in each length from a 1 x 2 board using the measurements you just calculated. *Why do you add 3? To account for the width of the vertical frame boards. Then, add 3 to this number.* This number will be the length of your top and bottom frame boards. ![]() Now, measure the width of the opening and subtract 1/2″ for your overlap. This number will be the height of your side frame boards. Take this vertical measurement and subtract 1/2″ to give yourself a 1/4″ overlap on each side. ![]() ![]() I measured from the highest point of the drywall to the top of the vent. You want to cover any messy bits (like the drywall at the bottom of this photo). In this example, the air exchange vent is 10″ x 10″ but that actual opening is not. Step 1: Measure the opening of your air ventįirst, you need to measure the opening of your air vent.
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